Cloth: Cotton

Cotton, it is a fibre that is known to all.

(Fun fact Cotton is Baumwolle in german, literal translation: tree wool, so cute right?)

It is in most textiles we wear and use, often favoured over its synthetic counterparts. What is not so widely known is how the plant turns from fibre to yarn, then into the fabric. The process from which the seeds are planted to the picking of the cotton is time, cost and resource intensive. These bolls (technical term as well as descriptive) of fluffy white fibre are then spun into yarn before being woven or knitted into fabrics.

Although cotton has been around since before 4000BC, it wasn't until the Industrial Revolution (1738) that it really became a commercial textile. Cotton was Britain's leading export with Manchester being named 'Cottonopolis' due to its role in the cotton trade. Inventions of new machinery that helped with picking the cotton as well as spinning and weaving all increased the demand for the raw material which in turn saw the producers sourcing the cotton from new plantations in the Americas. 

This is wonderfully detailed in both Worn by Sofi Thanhauser and Fabric by Victoria Finlay where you are able to understand how the fashion and textiles trade developed, including the use of slavery and working under unfair and unsafe conditions, not only in the past but the present too.

The garments that I make are often created from vintage cotton, and I praise this as it is fabric that has a great hand-feel and despite its age is still strong. What was never in mind was, that although this is true, the process the cotton had from crop to cloth could possibly be one that was marred with unjust working conditions or unsustainable practices. 

Modern day cotton is not without its problems, it too can be plagued with unsustainable practices. It not only uses large quantities of water to grow but often those who sell the seeds have modified them so that the plants must also use the pesticides sold by the same company to keep make them thrive. A vicious cycle (money, time and resources). Thankfully there are many organisations and companies that are driving a change and promoting organic cotton, cotton grown without pesticides, fairer and safer working conditions. Better for the planet and those growing it. 

For me using the vintage textiles, especially cotton has taken on a new meaning. Not only am I showcasing the work of those that embroidered the piece but also those that grew, picked, spun and wove the cloth, giving their work a new appreciation. 

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